Slab climbing injuries reddit. (I think I got it doing a gaston move on a slab wall). I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks I avoid the slab wall. One was a full blown pop that echoed in the gym followed by excruciating pain. I've been recovering from two doctor-diagnosed pulley strains for a month-- A3 on one 94 votes, 57 comments. I love slab. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. Wondering if I’m being a fool and would be better off getting on the slab and vert walls more or should I just not worry and climb what gets me excited? 33 year old guy, climbing for a year. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. I have been doing some one handed slab climbing but am refraining from using the wrist to climb. Agreed. With things like this I always think it is best to do what the dr. My mane goal of the training would be to increase strength and power and finger strength. Quick background info: i was climbing for maybe 30-45 minutes minimal stretching but tried to work my way through problems before trying hard got on a problem that was slab with good feet and some weird mono pocket start. worst injury ever. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). Make liberal use of pads, spotters, downclimbing, and learn how to fall properly. Pros training every day have a LOT of training behind them just to adjust to the Oh, hm. If your body is tired (i. All while bouldering. 55 votes, 18 comments. You’re engaging different muscles and using different techniques which ultimately can put off a climber who finds overhang climbing fun. Unfortunately my gym doesn't have a whole lot of slabs set up, so I'd be doing the same 2 or 3 routes every time I went Reply reply More replies Carliios • Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. I have cartoonishly long legs so it doesn’t help but not training my leg joints to be more stable is one of my greatest regrets climbing-wise. Early in my career I had a major muscular back injury which even after healing, left me with chronic pain and vulnerable to later "petty" back injuries (think severe pain and difficulty moving but for a short period of time). Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment JCMoxie •• Edited trueIs there a trend to the circumstances causing your injuries? Perhaps slipping off heel hooks? Or falling from slabs? I would see if there is a trend and only avoid that one thing if possible. . Watch technique videos like Neil Gresham's masterclasses on Youtube (link in the The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I had no pain and didn't really think anything of it. How do you weigh backcountry safety in surgery/no surgery decision? — Eric M. I’ve been climbing for about a year. Wake up in the wee hours of the morning and my knee is killing 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. About 20 minutes later I was on another route with a (somewhat) high left foot and as I placed the I got back into climbing a few months ago after a 5 year hiatus and I started rather slowly. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. 337 votes, 50 comments. However, what I am lacking is a regimented training schedule. Slabs are notoriously hard to grade as slab climbing tends to be significantly less strength-dependent and way more technique-dependent. If you find yourself skin limited try to do more climbing (e. My biggest climbing injuries so far have been a ruptured ankle tendon and a tweaked LCL. Already had climbed a few time occasionally, but now I bought my first pair of shoes and plan on going more regularly. And things start to feel vertical in terms of climbing style quite a bit before they actually are vertical. it's also super easy to reinjure, so be careful when you start climbing again. Looking for some tips on how to feel safer when climbing on slab. My elbow hit the wall on the way down right on my nerve, and I experienced some of the most severe pain I've ever felt. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. I've been slowly working back up to it and took a big fall (17 feet) today on a scary slab. So higher chance of injury is my biggest reason for not doing as much slabs as I should. Certain styles of climbing, namely slab, are a great way to improve stability, as these climbs often emphasize balance. g. Steeper climbs may be less painful than slab routes with delicate footwork and lots of sustained plantar flexion. I find that I'm climbing a couple grades lower on slab problems compared to overhanging ones. says and hope that in a year or so (depending on injury) things improve and you can consider working towards climbing more. Sure, we each have our favorite styles but generally climb within a grade on most styles. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. Climbing involves a lot of complex movements that aren't easily trained with isolation exercises. Could it be a mental block? I started climbing in 2019, climbed for a year, pandemic hit, stopped climbing when gyms closed. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across. People tend to get flare ups after a season of hard crimping / more than usual. Thanks Aug 15, 2022 · The 2,000-foot Snake Dike is a well-known but extremely run-out moderate slab route, and pitches often feature 40 to 50 feet of climbing between bolts, with scant placements for pro. I experienced a really bad ankle tear a few years ago slab climbing in the South Platte. But as u/FreackInAMagnum says, the style of climbing on a slab - friction, crimps, runnels - is way more informative than the exact angle. So i guess my mind is comparing that type of soft tissue injury with this one. trueThe best thing you can do at this stage is make time to climb more. See a physio with experience with climbing injuries if you can, they'll be able to direct you best for rehab and climbing specific exercises. Commonly asked about topics I have a few innervated muscles in my shoulder (supraspinatus, infraspinatus) due to a brachial plexus injury long ago, and as of a few weeks ago that same shoulder has been grinding and clicking and popping, and only seems to be getting worse. Did yours hurt pretty bad, say a week later or did pain mostly only Knee’s hyperextended. I am terrified of heights and get scared a lot on Depends a lot on the nature and degree of the injury. (Yes, I realize this sub is not a substitute for professional medical help. 5. It's not very representative of the type of slab climbing around me and the injury potential is real. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. What grip positions are safer for lumbricals while I do some very light slab/technique style climbing, and what aren't? Any recommendations on how to not strain it during climbing and what should I do in the future to keep it more injury free? Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. Reply reply More replies perpetualwordmachine • A little over six weeks ago I was climbing at my local gym and experienced an excruciatingly sharp pain fast forward to today and I am pretty sure it's an intercostal muscle strain or possibly a tear. I have been climbing for 5 years but only two years consistently I can climb at a v6 level on slab but only around a v4 on any other discipline. The most primary long term cause of gains in climbing, as with many sports, will depend on you keeping injuries at bay. While climbing a slab at the gym 2 days ago pulling onto a high left foot, my left hip popped as joints sometime do under strain (i. Yes there are ways to prevent injury bouldering, and top roping is not risk-free, but I can’t wait to get back to climbing, and will likely not be bouldering any time soon. That was my first fall on gear and my longest (also my most expensive). Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve noticed that my main limitation has been bicep soreness, both as it arises over the course of a session and how I still feel sore climbing two days or less after another climbing/gym session. Im back climbing harder than I was before, I just can't climb monos on certain fingers. A compression injury or, 2. As you progress through your ankle program, be sure to incorporate climbing throughout as an evaluation of your ankle status. This fibrocartilage complex is an important stabilizer of the wrist but can often become injured through overuse, from a fall onto an outstretch hand, or through degeneration with age (generally >50 years old). I've done three V8's. How do pros climb 5. They lasted me 3 Quick intro: I am 44 years old based, in Brazil, been climbing for more than half of my life. Not all injuries are the same but I hope you’re back to climbing soon! Injuries suck! Edit: I would like to add that my Airrosti provider encouraged me to keep climbing (very mildly) after a certain amount of treatment to gauge how I was healing. After just climbing for two months I’ve progressed to v3. unexpectedly and with intensity; when I crack my knuckles normally it's a pretty low intensity sensation). Inflammation was crazy intense for like a month. However, on slight overhang and steeper, you fall away from the wall. I shake it off and keep going no issues, nothing out of the ordinary. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. Treat the climbing session as a diagnostic to see if your rehab is working or not. In my 20+ years of climbing, I have never smashed my face against the wall. The only injuries I sustained (we won't mention the phone replacement, but that certainly injured my wallet) were a few scrapes and scratches. The home of Climbing on reddit. And people say slab is fun 🥲 Indoor Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A roguebaconstrip • Jun 8, 2022 · Toe strength isn’t just handy for slab climbing—we need it and calf strength for holding kneebars, molding to dishes, and more. How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Look into the climbing doctor - a book on common climbing injuries and exercises to prevent them. 1 The most common mechanism of injury to the TFCC for climbers is either 1. Commonly asked about topics If you have a pile of minor injuries then focus on doing the rehab and cut back the climbing to once a week or so. Well both were acute injuries (L side: slab climbing fall, R side: bicycle crash) so my very first sx were like numbness/tingling down my arm, and pain with flexion/abduction. I think I was back on the wall two weeks after my initial injury as a means of recovery. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. And yes we are scared of falling. Hard heel/toe hooks and rock overs can really mess you up if they are at your limit. I was never diagnosed with a specific injury but my doctor suggested it was either bursitis or tendonitis from repetitive use. I (27f) have osteoporosis in my back and hips so I’m similarly concerned about building strength while minimising risk. There is no 'exercises to prevent injuries' as a specific magic bullet. My right arm was fully extended to a small pinch, and my right foot was balancing on a micro jib. Has anyone returned to climbing after an injury like this? I currently have screws in my forearm to hold the bones in place. I've been in physical therapy for the past 3 I tore my ACL and MCL bouldering in November - an injury that unequivocally would not have happened if I had been top roping. Lumbar fusion or disc replacement and ice/mixed/drytooling climbers? — Deb L. Because your adaptation is for your upper body, you will eventually (probably) gravitate towards slab climbing which is almost always a more foot-centric type of moves than powerful upper body overhangs. (Great resource for climbing specific injury advice. Been climbing a few years now. A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. (Example: i avoid some gastons due to repeated shoulder injuries) There's no sense in avoiding climbing as a whole though Hopefully you can find a solution that works for you. ) drjuliansaunders Related Topics Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Generally nagging injuries that get worse, I can't remember a time I've climbed where I didn't have at least some slight pain. ) Downclimbing yesterday I fell and slid down a slab. That was 4 weeks ago! This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. This time I literally run to the doc, as I was scared that the ligament might have been damaged: the knee was swollen, and sort of blocked for several days after a bouldering session. Also tendon glides and a good warm up routine are your friends. Get off work early Saturday night and super psyched to have a chance to hit the gym before it closes. I was off climbing for maybe 2 months, and then another month to get up to full strength. After a few minutes it subsided and I had the usual "funny bone" symptoms: numbness, tingling and muscle weakness in my ring/pinky fingers on that Broke my arm and had surgery. Bouldering gym owners: I'm collecting best practises for gyms to prevent injuries. 10 routes but a recent strained pulley has put a huge damper on my ability to climb as much as I want even after taking a while off and climbing only juggy routes afterwards. Injury free. Reply reply BigBoulderingBalls • Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. Halfway through the session I bop my knee on a hold on the slab wall. Leg behind the rope while lead climbing, slipped, took a flip whip, then hit the rock wrist first. I haven't seen a lot of injuries at my gym but over half have been on the slab wall including my own mildly sprained knee. Finally rediscovered climbing recently in dec 2023. You will need a really well balanced cycle to keep your body working, something that allows you to recover sufficiently and even more importantly for progress, keep your training high quality. It’s possible that inefficient climbing movement or a muscle imbalance could be setting you up for a future injury. If you are doing a wide range of climbing with one pair of shoes, professionals tend to prefer soft rubber because the negatives can be compensated by getting strong feet. When I started climbing, my limiting factor was forearm pump, but within a few 490 votes, 96 comments. 15's and other hard routes so often and not perpetually ruptute But of the many comments, I didn’t see a single one about someone with a hip flexor injury (which is what I’m currently dealing with) I don’t remember any specific moment this injury happened, I got home from climbing a tough slab on TR and my hip flexor was quite upset with me any time I’d try to raise my leg. I’ve typically going with neutral shoes (although I did have a pair of Evolv Kronos. If you feel any kind of weird aches or pains (esp in your fingers), then stop climbing. V7 in my style take a couple of days to get. Another reason why climbers hate slab climbing is related to the fact that slab climbing is completely different to overhang climbing. Bouldering is probably the most likely to get injured, mainly hurting your ankles falling improperly. Hangboarding and keeping climbing volume in check. An extension injury 3 Compression injuries may result from falling on a hand when Reply reply Anthropocentrism • I prescribe slab climbing Reply reply professional-loser69 • Ive had multiple pulley injuries which cost me two years of climbing. 1. My girlfriend and I were climbing on Martian Slab on Sunday, Sept 18th. A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). Yet bouldering grades are meant to be a measure of how physically difficult a climb is, or in other words how strength-dependent it is. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. If you do Injure your pulley just take time off. 1K votes, 59 comments. I guess worst case scenario there’s always slab climbing hahaha Reply reply More repliesMore replies Climbers recovering from injuries, what's your story and what's your advice? Jun 11, 2024 · Unlock the secrets to slab climbing with these tips from Rock Spot including keeping your heels down and edging with climbing shoes. Climbing has literally never been painfree for me. A few friends have suggested I type this in week 6 out of at least 10 of recovering from a climbing related TFCC injury so take it for what it's worth, but I think the advice is good but misinterpreted. 1-2 hours per session with adequate rest between climbs twice or three times per week with rest days between is optimal. I've worked my way up to getting some. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. you didn't get a good night's rest), or you haven't stayed properly hydrated, then you should skip a session. Currently rehabbing two minor pulley injuries and fully cleared by physio to keep climbing so long as they are taped for support and no full crimping. My biggest concern is to avoid overuse injury, as my forearms muscles/tendons are currently sore for a good 4 days after a session. In my mind, a couple days or even a week of no climbing beats taking months off in Hey everyone. ) that has less fingertip intensive stuff so you can get in climbing volume not at the expensive of your tips Climbing Injury in Peshastin Pinnacles I wanted to write a quick post here about an accident that recently happened near Leavenworth, WA, in the Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions. This is I’ve also just started climbing (3 months) and sort of in the same boat. Should you wait for the soreness to be over to climb This "Injury Gospel" will help you prevent pesky injuries and heal them faster. 13 votes, 23 comments. Also should mention that I hurt the wrist initially in late September. For me it was a mental thing. But that might just be me idk. Very diligent about warming up, strength training and antagonistic work. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. One gym had a 50% reduction in injuries by using these methods, but more tips are very welcome! : r/bouldering TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity POPULAR POSTS Go to bouldering r/bouldering r/bouldering Reddit's rock climbing training community. The best way to prevent injury is not overdoing climbing volume and doing enough strength exercises in contrast to your climbing. I also stick with mainly top rope/lead/auto belay and only boulder occasionally due to fear of injury by falls. I’ve been climbing for 6 months and climb about twice a week plus one gym session (strength training) per week. I stick to developing my slab technique outside. Commonly asked about topics I was thinking, wondering, do people usually have a big skill disparity between slab and overhang or not? Me and the people I climb with make a point to vary our climbing during our sessions, so we hit a bit of everything every time. Watch your rope/foot positioning folks, and if you're tired, don't push yourself. Discuss accidents, injuries, treatments, and other health-related issues here. Really aggressive gastons, or high underclings still feel tweaky 5 months after injury, but otherwise I'm climbing harder than before. I thought I was warm enough and it was slab so I’m mostly balancing anyhow, and I start the problem. you'll probably never be 100%, but you might get close with a lot of rehab and strength training. Haha, yeah, just trying to put my mind at ease until I see someone in PT / at the doctors office next week. I did 8 weeks wrist brace, 8 weeks wrist widget full time, then 8 weeks normal with no climbing. You are much more likely to get a lower leg injury from taking a weird fall when bouldering. For context I'm a 25y/o EMT. However recently, after several days of slab climbing & aggressive rockovers, I ended up having some troubles again. If you learn how to fall from the instructor and ease into it you’ll be fine. Slab walls are generally more dangerous as you're not necessarily falling onto mats straight down - so be prepared to push yourself away from the wall when you fall. Knuckles, elbows, shins, knees, sure. Rope climbing especially top rope is probably the safest form of climbing seeing as your not hitting the ground, there is still a chance of injury, but if you have a good partner the risks are exceptionally low. I could only ever do max v2s. Fully dedicated to the most injury intensive discipline (bouldering) for the past 13 years. I have avoided slab for a long time since spraining my ankle on it last January. e. And consider taking up rope climbing if your injury averse. I think it's cause on overhangs I'm usually falling straight down onto the mat, whereas in slab climbs I'm scared a foot will slip unexpectedly and I'll hit every hold and volume on the way down. I've banged and bumped all of those up, but never my face. Climbing elicits a lot of force through the joints, as well as a lot of rotational damage. My worst injury was an end of the day slip up. You want to lean towards softer rubber for slab climbing smearing and indoor climbing/standing on volumes, but you want harder rubber for tiny edges. Top roping is super safe because you’re attached to a rope. I fell about 50 feet down slab the other day while I was leading. Just started going to a bouldering gym. One of those 'hit your funny bone' awkward pain/numbness injuries which quickly subsides. The only time since my Fifteen years of climbing, more runout trad climbs than I can count, and my first serious injury was toproping in the gym. The only exception being comp-style and especially running starts, as This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. I really don't trust my feet. Ankle fusion vs total ankle replacement? — Jim Garrett. Techy/slabby V6's can take a session to get, my slab climbing needs work. I was wondering how many times per week to target. Rest a full 48 hours in between climbing sessions; you should not be going everyday. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence 21 votes, 26 comments. Especially just to I've seen a some discussion on here about how having warmed up fingers and climbing seems to either negate or just mask the pain of a finger injury, and the general consensus seems to be that climbing is okay (and even beneficial to rehab) as long as you don't start to feel significant pain while climbing. On the right side (my first injury), there was also a distinct feeling of instability & vulnerability in my shoulder with my arm raised above my head. The last time I had a finger injury (pulley overuse) I tried to do this sort of half-assed "just climb easy" and wound up in a similar position where I was bored shitless and not really improving This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. I've always just climbed for fun. I’ve implemented a regular pre- and especially post-climb stretching routine and I'm curious if you or anyone you know has used climbing specifically to strengthen back muscles and reduce back pain. slab, stemming, maybe some easier routes, etc. It´s common for me to climb/train 6 times per week. I usually warm up on V3-4, flash a few 5s (slabby 5's can give me issues), V6 in my style (overhung) usually go in 2-4 attempts. Slabs for technique sounds like a really good idea, actually. started light climbing with wrist widget (v0-4), slowly Reddit's rock climbing training community. After injuries I take time off and then come back slowly, but inevitably within a couple months the finger injuries are back to the dangerously nagging stage. Sep 16, 2021 · Climb easier routes with foot holds outside the crack or work on your sport climbing game for a while. MembersOnline • HarryCaul ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. The r/climbharder Master Sticky. royal arch fatality? — MP. Thoughts, experiences, tips etc greatly appreciated. Got myself a distal radius fracture, plus a snazzy new steel plate in my wrist now. It all comes down to physics, and feet slipping off that tiny foothold, and you drop down or slightly forward, depending on the angle. hmxyq alvv mviaplg gelnegr ikv bffmago aeovyjf dlfvbr npky roooaf