Belay from above with atc. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing.

Belay from above with atc. This can be used for both single pitch and multipitch applications Oct 26, 2017 · You can use a grigri to top-belay your second (refer to manuals for other assisted brake devices, I've never used anything but guide atc or grigri). Jul 11, 2024 · Best Budget/Entry-Level Belay Device Black Diamond ATC-XP ($25) Style: Tube What we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. Tie yourself in tight to your anchor and use your ATC-XP to belay off your rope tie in. Moreover, in the case of the seconding climber belay from top rope belay we can use self-locking feature of this belay device. Pros: The ATC’s long history and universality have helped make it one of the most affordable and widely available belay devices. Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review how to belay from above the climber, as opposed to below the climber. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. If your blocking carabine My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. Is that right? If so, it sounds . If your hand is up above the belay device and your partner falls, the rope will slide through the belay device, burning your hand and perhaps bringing your climber down. Also, it is much heavier than other autoblocking devices, making it less suitable Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. If he falls and the clove hitch is not complete the carabiner will prevent the atc from blocking. This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. In common-speak, we are talking about “auto-locking” or “self-locking” plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. MSRP: $29. Dec 11, 2023 · In our opinion, even though it adds $3 and 4 grams, the ATC XP (#1 most owned, above) would be a more preferred first belay device given the more refined shape and friction adding teeth. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. You can also use an ATC to rappel or abseil, either on twin rope strands or a single fixed strand. Mar 15, 2016 · A climber that is secured by a top rope from above will create slack, and the belay system should constantly remove slack. For lowering, it has a small secondary This video covers how to set up and belay a climber from an anchor above them (multi pitch belaying). The last method I talk about is the recommended system by manufactures and Aug 16, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. Dec 6, 2018 · BRAKE STRAND REDIRECT (ATC Guide/Petzl Reverso) More complicated to remember, and harder to transition to while belaying, the brake-strand redirect nonetheless provides a smooth and secure lower directly off the anchor using the belay device we probably all have on us. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. There are three ways to belay from above: Off the harness Through a redirect Off the anchor itself Belaying off the anchor is almost always the best option. Atc style belay device will fail in some cases when you have 2 seconds coming to the belay horizontally (traverse) if I remember correctly. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Learn how to belay a follower from above on a trad climb or multi-pitch sport route. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. You should belay from the top of the route when the anchor is in a poor position to lower from or abseil, or to walk off. 5 days ago · There are a large variety of belay devices on the market. 95 In the modern climbing era it’s become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. e. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll need to step up to a device like the ATC-Guide below. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. Nov 6, 2022 · Origins The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Types of belay devices: Your belay device is used to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower your climbing partner. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. [Photo] Andrew Councell In addition to the brake-assist (“thumb mode”) using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or “guide mode” for belaying climbers from above. Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. While all functions work well, the slider is a bit confusing to learn and isn't intuitive, making this device less suitable for handing to a partner without teaching them to use it first. A toothless tube option is available, too, as the classic Black Diamond ATC. May 8, 2014 · ACMG guide Paul McSorley shows us how to belay on a multi-pitch climb using a "guide style" autoblocking belay device from the top. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. you can’t just do a normal belay when belaying from above on a multi-pitch Actually you can,if by "normal belay" you mean an undirected ATC on the harness, and it was standard practice for years (in Britain & the US - in the Alps munter hitch on the anchor was more usual). Another common mistake is to hold your hand too close to the belay device. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. Weighing in at 2. However, if you were to do this while belaying from The sling extends the belay device above the back-up knot. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. Jan 16, 2019 · Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to lower your second if you need to. Additionally, these skills are foundational in self rescue techniques. My final note would be, if you’re a pre-2009 Grigri user, to not go back and forth between the two devices, to avoid the belay confusion described above. ATC belay styles Hey So I went to a new gym in a new town yesterday and during their "belay test" was left to feel like a total asshole idiot. NOT in guide mode) BUT, there's a caveat: You must have a redirect point as soon as possible above your anchor. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). This can be really useful in some rescue systems. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. What Is An ATC? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. The locked-off position for your break hand is at your hip, down and away from the belay device. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. The following information will help explain how to configure and use your belay device in REVERSO Mode. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either The question generated some great back and forth conversation and ultimately provided the motivation for this post, so thank you for the question Sammy! “What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper Refuse on Cathedral Ledge a few days ago. Use your ATC-XP to belay off your harness and redirect the rope to a piece above you. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. ATC An ATC is shaped so it pinches the rope in three places. The Munter Hitch is a belaying knot that you can use to lower or even belay your climber. An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. Jun 29, 2018 · How to belay from above The REVERSO can be set up as an assisted braking device when belaying from above on multi-pitch climbs. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) instructor Margaret Wheeler explains how to belay directly off the anchor for safety and efficiency. These are indirect belays, redirected belays and direct belays. Are there situations when other options can be useful? Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. Recently my climbing buddy and I tried to practise ATC lowering from above but all techniques require some for of bodyweight/pulling to flip the ATC/seperate the loadstrand. Jun 13, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. What is the correct way to do this (including illustrations)? Mar 10, 2015 · This answer doesn't speak to the "how" you would belay at all. You can also use a tuber (ATC, Reverso, etc. ) I was using an ATC Guide in guide mode, directly off of an anchor. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. In the old days a climber would finish a line, clip into the anchor and then put his follower The increased braking effect of the new device geometry assists the belayer when arresting a fall as a leader Faster rope payout when lead climbing thanks to the thumb-loop-based operation Additional eyelet for unlocking the device in follower mode using a carabiner Suitable for belaying a leader, bringing up one or two followers, and rappelling Robust solid stainless steel construction If I belay from above I use cinch for single rope situations and bd atc xp guide for double ropes or two followers. Instead of a doubled sling you can use a quickdraw, which may be a bit neater. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. How to pass a belay certification? You can pass … Mar 23, 2014 · Xam wrote: Not to confuse the op question but I have always wondered if people who say they belay a second off the harness redirect the rope above them or lock off with their brake hand above the device, assume an atc type belay device? Jul 23, 2015 · The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. This technique is very commonly used in multi-pitch cli Here, the climber depends on his partner to handle the rope, hindering too much tension or slack through good belay techniques. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. What we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay. It locks off upwards, so you can actually belay from above the knot. When you’re belaying from above, the “guide mode” lets you bring up one or two seconding climbers under control. I've been climbing for years with both grigri and ATC and I used my ATC for their belay test. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some May 28, 2020 · This class will show you how to belay from above using an ATC Guide/Reverso, GriGri and Munter Hitch These skills are critical for multi-pitch climbing. From the bottom of the pitch and my partner is leading, off my harness. Sport Climbing Anchors. It has grooves designed and shaped to provide equal friction for both thin and thick ropes. This article will look into how to rappel with ATC devices. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Lock the carabiner. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top Sep 30, 2016 · The DMM Pivot Belay Device. clipped on the May 5, 2020 · Apex Guide David explains the technical set up of the redirect and direct belay methods used during a top belay when climbing. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for belay assists, rope management, and how AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Jul 8, 2021 · What is ATC Climbing Anyway? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. In this video I talk about a few of the more popular ways to belay your climbing partner up to the belay station. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. An easy to follow How To Belay From Above using an atc device. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. It is mindboggling to compile a list of all rappel gears in one place. ”. Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. (In this case the reason for belaying from above was that the climb was too long for top-roping from the ground with a single rope. Also, when combined with a Mule Knot, the Munter is very secure and easily Dec 22, 2023 · In this article, I’ll briefly discuss the evolion of belaying and belay devices overtime, talk about some of the most common belay devices on the market, including thier pros and cons, and then share my unsolicited advice to help you deploy the right belay device at the right time. Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul takes a standard autoblocking tube-style belay device and adds a slider that provides an assisted brake function. Giga Jul is the answer. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Feb 22, 2020 · This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. the second best way is to belay directly off the anchor using a autoblock device. The ATC was clipped into the master point at the top via a biner and the lead rope fed through as normal down to the climber below. Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner. Jun 16, 2017 · The load-strand direct (LSD) lower offers a simple, smooth, easy-to-set-up lower when belaying from above with a "guide mode" device. The Evolution of Belaying and Belay Devices Overtime Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. įor an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Jan 28, 2019 · We have made a quick video to highlight how easy it is to belay a climber from above using a belay plate in guide mode. Jan 20, 2023 · Most climbers know intrinsically that there are a few of different methods that a climber might use to belay from the top. We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a summit experience with your partner on a Jan 28, 2019 · Or you can just belay your second (s) off of your harness, redirecting the rope (s) up through the anchor or an overhead bolt or piece of gear. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. Additionally, there is no reason to doubt the reliability of auto-locking setups such as guide-mode on ATC. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). Aug 28, 2021 · My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. g. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. AND, it must not fail. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. You'll want one eventually anyway. Today, we talk more about how to belay, and here’s everything you need to know about it. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. one of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the black diamond air traffic controller or atc. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. But before learning about each method, let’s Dec 16, 2017 · I know for example that you have to care if you are using a Tube (e. But with this Crafty Rope Trick, it's no problemo - all you need is some LSD. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. I was attached to a separate anchor to hold me in place. the atc takes a secondary set of skills to lower someone [while belaying] from a long distance from above. 7 mm to 11 mm. Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. You could use just a grigri, but you lose a lot of versatility. IMO, those are your options: Buy an ATC-Guide or Reverso or other device designed for it if you want guide mode. The only gripe I have ever had is if you climb with someone who still likes 10+mm ropes, you will have a little more exercise as you belay them from above. Visit http://altusmountainguides Jul 29, 2024 · In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. We failed to do this, trying multiple techniques, as we could't generate enough pulling power sitting down next to the masterpoint. Feb 9, 2020 · If you only have your hand on the rope above the belay device – or not on the rope at all – and the climber falls, then the rope may run freely through the device, which could lead to a fatal accident. If you're actually climbing multi-pitch, you've likely invested quite a bit into your rack, so pony up the extra ~25 bucks for a guide ATC. Belaying off of your harness puts the least amount of force, Remember to tie into the anchor then belay off your harness. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. From the top of the pitch after leading, off the anchor with an ATC in guide mode. SHUTTLE / K6140EE00 - bordo SHUTTLE / K6140BB00 - black Belay and rappel device One device to do it all, the SHUTTLE offers maximum versatility. Belaying From Above is a climbing technique used to bring a climber up to the top of a cliff/pitch. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Jan 24, 2022 · A prusick tied above your belay device with a sling clipped to it makes a perfect foot loop to ascend the rope and the atc in guide mode on your harness will autoblock to keep your progress. Or. And if your second leads through, he or she can stay on belay without the belay being changed. īest Belay Device for Cragging Petzl Grigri ($110) What we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use. Belay From Above Atc. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Jul 5, 2016 · Now the instructor at the wall I'm at was showing how to direct belay from the anchor at the top using an ATC style device with teeth on one side. Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. Intuitive belay device with enhanced braking feature designed for gym or single pitch sport climbing. This is best used if you wish to lower your climber with a tubular style belay device, but have them independently attached to Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. It's also lighter. BD ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) and you are going to belay from the body because the device will fail if the pull of the rope isn't coming from above. The Black Diamond ATC’s straightforward design makes it easy to use, familiar to the majority of climbers, and simple to double-check before climbing. It's vastly inferior to current techniques, either guide mode or from the harness with a redirect, and therefore quite Oct 7, 2023 · A common practice is to belay a follower from above by connecting a grigri to the anchor and pulling down on the brake strand to take up slack. The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. This is important because if the Prusik loop gets drawn into the belay device it can get jammed, making it impossible to move up or down the rope, or it can actually prevent the Prusik from jamming and so rendering the back-up useless. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. Dec 5, 2024 · We compare the most popular choices in The Best Climbing Belay Device Review, and offer our thoughts on the suitability of each device for different types of belaying. I feel that it is less physically taxing to take up slack through grigri/cinch than atc guide. The best system here is the Munter-Mule Combination Knot. What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll want to step up to a device like the ATC Guide or Reverso. Belaying a partner in REVERSO Mode takes the weight off of the belayer’s body and makes it easy to belay two climbers simultaneously. ” Belaying a heavier climber is always tough. Following is a quick rundown of each: Indirect Belay An indirect belay is when one belays directly off of his body. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. Feb 13, 2018 · The more common way of belaying is called PBUS which stands for Pull, Under, Brake, Slide. ) So, I started asking questions. 7 I recently gave a belay from above to a group of five people who were all doing the same single-pitch climb and then being lowered off. If you’re rappelling, find out where the anchors are. Pass the climber side of the rope through a directional carabiner, placed above the belay anchor. Then you can use any belay gadget to safely lower your second (s). This is most Guide mode is great, but here in the UK especially, we do love to use the rope to build a belay and most instructions for guide mode show sling or cordlette setups. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry You can use a Munter to lead belay directly off the anchor. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Here are some tips to help you overcome many of the challenges! This is Part 3 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series: Part 1: How To Belay With An ATC Part 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification Test Part 3: How To Belay A Heavier Climber Part 4: How To Belay From Above Part 5: How To Set Up Top Rope Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay from above with a GRIGRI? The GRIGRI can be used to to belay on multipitch routes. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. Additionally, when a climber wants to rest on the rope, when a fall is anticipated, or prior to lowering, belayers also need to remove any latent elasticity from the rope system. Apparently they didn't like my style and treated me like it was my first time climbing. Belaying the "same way" as you would on the ground means reversing the direction of the break hand, or re-directing the belay rope to be above you. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Dec 13, 2023 · But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. . Atc will also fail in some cases if your seconds falls while he’s making his own clove hitch at the belay. Black Diamond’s ATC-XP adheres to the age-old adage: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive. The standard ATC, today, can Oct 12, 2022 · Easy to use, inexpensive, super easy to lower in guide mode and the slight 90 degree change in the guide bracket make a world of difference at your belay stations. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Share 0 Comments Feb 5, 2014 · If you're belaying a second from above (off the harness, using an ATC-style device), what is the lock-off position for the brake rope? I would have thought that in a fall, the device would rotate and point down, so your lock-off position would be with the brake rope pointing *up* in anticipation of that. In this article, we'll break down the different types of belay devices and explain how to choose the best belay device for your climbing style and preferences. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. tpupo yukf vxl ilkrj qxpdc jry rpea oxvfdr itit vzq